Tuesday, March 17, 2015

Congolese democracy, Congolese swag

We returned to Bukavu on January 19 after a month away to find SMS and internet blocked by the government in response to widespread protests. What had happened was: in early January the lower chamber of parliament (analgous to the U.S. House of Representatives) passed a new electoral law requiring a census prior to the next elections, scheduled for 2016. There hasn’t been a census in DRC since 1984, so it’s not a bad idea. However, most experts agreed that a census in DRC could easily take up to five (!) years (!), so many Congolese saw the law as an attempt by President Kabila to delay the elections and give himself a third term (the constitution states that two terms are the maximum allowed). By January 23, the upper chamber (analogous to the U.S. Senate) had to decide whether to confirm the law. Hence the protests, which were tweeted under #telema (a call to “arise” or “stand up” in Lingala).
http://www.theguardian.com/world/2015/jan/21/-sp-congo-telema-protest-twitter
In Bukavu, students laid tires across one of the main roads and set them on fire. On a couple occasions civil society declared ville morte, no work, no school, a sort of general strike to mark their disapproval. Across the country, over 40 people were killed when police and other state security forces responded to protests.
Now here’s what’s incredible: it worked. The upper chamber did not confirm the law. The people’s voice, it would seem, was heard.
When I say this to Congolese friends, they say, yeah, sure, it worked this time, but there will be many more attempts by Kabila for a troisième mandat.
The next attempt, some say, was to schedule local elections (at the sub-province level) ahead of the national (including presidential) elections. Local elections have *never* been held in DRC. They could involve up to 7,275 electoral districts, compared to 266 during the last provincial elections in 2006. That ain’t gonna be easy, to say the least. And if they are delayed due to logistical or financial constraints, then Kabila stays in power.
And now, just last Sunday, security forces arrested a U.S. diplomat along with pro-democracy activists, journalists and musicians following a news conference in the capital Kinshasa. “The arrested activists included Fadel Barro, a member of the Senegalese collective of hip-hop artists "Y en a Marre", which helped organize protests against former President Abdoulaye Wade's bid for a third term in 2012. A member of the grassroots political group "Balai Citoyen", which played a leading role protests that toppled longtime Burkina Faso President Blaise Compaore last year, was also detained.”
http://www.reuters.com/article/2015/03/15/us-congodemocratic-arrests-idUSKBN0MB10120150315

More to come, I’m sure. Where does Kabila get these ideas? Here’s what Mark Twain wrote in “King Leopold’s Soliloquy” in 1905:

They have told how for twenty years I have ruled the Congo State not as a trustee of the Powers, an agent, a subordinate, a foreman, but as a sovereign -- sovereign over a fruitful domain four times as large as the German Empire -- sovereign absolute, irresponsible, above all law; trampling the Berlin-made Congo charter under foot; barring out all foreign traders but myself; restricting commerce to myself, through concessionaires who are my creatures and confederates; seizing and holding the State as my personal property, the whole of its vast revenues as my private "swag" -- mine, solely mine -- claiming and holding its millions of people as my private property, my serfs, my slaves; their labor mine, with or without wage; the food they raise not their property but mine; the rubber, the ivory and all the other riches of the land mine -- mine solely -- and gathered for me by the men, the women and the little children under compulsion of lash and bullet, fire, starvation, mutilation and the halter.

Friday, November 14, 2014

Rascifascifarians

Thangs dun picked up ‘round hurr. Megan is teaching two courses at l’Université Catholique de Bukavu: logic and numerical methods. Because professors only get paid $500 a month, it’s typical for courses to be highly compressed; for example, Megan teaches from 9a-5p, M/W/Sat for four weeks. That allows profs to teach at other universities and to consult to supplement their salaries. Megan is no exception. She’s also working on a report on climate change in Uganda for the World Bank, and she’s acting as an interim financial guru for a social enterprise called The Peace Exchange. TPE consists of about twenty women who sew cloth napkins for export to the USA, along with two administrators. The founder lives in California.
On my end we finished the endline survey of an evaluation of a program to increase agricultural productivity in South Kivu. We sent seven teams of five people each to 94 villages to interview approximately 900 households about their farming practices and standard of living.
One thing that our jobs have in common is the need to create discipline and order without acting like a racist fascist (i.e. a racifascifarian). One of Megan’s classes is for freshpeople (first-years), the other for sophomores. The difference in behavior between the two is remarkable; freshpeople have a much harder time sitting still and shutting up (a colleague who also teaches at the university estimates that 60% fail). There are about 60 students in each of Megan’s classes. So far she has asked two to leave for talking during class. And she’s refused entry to several who were 10 minutes late coming back from a classroom break.
In her other job as financial guru, one of her main tasks is to find out the “real” prices of goods and services around here. As in, are the Congolese employees reporting prices honestly, or are they inflating them and pocketing the difference? Or are they reporting prices honestly, but paying more than necessary? Megan has found some discrepancies, and confronting the employees with them has not been fun.
The research assistants I’m supervising are paid by the day, so they have an incentive to take longer than necessary to complete surveys. The ways in which the time required to complete a survey can be extended are surprisingly many. Perhaps transport wasn’t available – there were no motorcycle taxis around to reach the village. Or maybe there was a taxivan headed to the village, but it took three hours for enough passengers to arrive to fill it up. Or, once at the village, the chief is not cooperative. Or the chief is cooperative, but many of the villagers are already at their fields and so aren’t willing to be interviewed. All of this could happen. But did it really happen yesterday? How the hell am I supposed to know? The options seem to be: trust them, or go racifascifarian. It’s not a pretty picture.
In our last survey, one of the (white) supervisors accused one of the (Congolese) research assistants of conspiring with the parish where we were staying to inflate the price of a room. Let’s call them Scarlett and Randy. Megan had seen Randy take the parish-keeper aside just before he, the parish-keeper, “remembered” that the price of rooms was actually twice as high as he’d initially said. A couple days later, just as we’d arrived in a village to start work, Scarlett accused Randy. She did it in front of the other research assistants and the villagers. Needless to say, it did not go over well.
The next morning, after word of the incident spread throughout our teams, one of the research assistants sent me a text informing me that everyone refused to work until we had a meeting with all 35 research assistants. Foolishly, neither I nor the other supervisors guessed what it was about. Therefore none of us objected to the idea of Scarlett skipping the meeting to catch up on documenting our expenditures. We, the supervisors, were by now sleeping 45 minutes away from the parish because we needed electricity to charge the tablets each night. We drove back to the parish.
Everyone was waiting by the time we arrived and it felt tense. I greeted each research assistant individually in an effort to lighten the mood. Then I sat down cross-legged in the grass instead of on one of the chairs they’d saved for me. That helped a little. They wanted me to start the meeting. I said, too brusquely, “You all demanded this meeting, not me. Let’s hear what you have to say.” I was annoyed at the thought of losing an entire day of work.
One of the research assistants stood up and read a page-long declaration that they’d written collectively, expressing their unhappiness at the disrespect shown to them. Then, one by one, the other research assistants elaborated, explaining that they are people worthy of respect – mothers and fathers, university graduates, intellectuals. They don’t deserve to be accused like criminals. They’re not here to steal. They’re not even primarily interested in their salaries; they’re interested in research and helping the country.
I tried to gently defend my co-supervisor, asking them to imagine what it’s like to be a white woman in Congo, where people are constantly, day in and day out, morning to night, either asking you to pay more than what the Congolese pay for a good or service, or simply asking for money as charity. This culture of having to negotiate every single transaction can wear a sister (and a brother) down. And in addition to that there are the cat calls, the shouting of “muzungu!”, the laughing at you for being white. Now at this point in my little speech I felt precariously close to someone like Bill O’Reiley whining that white male American Christians are discriminated against more than minorities in the USA, so I added that none of the above justifies the fact that the supervisor accused the research assistant so bluntly, and in public.
With my shoddy French, I’m used to people grimacing while I speak, so it was hard for me to discern to what extent the 35 faces around me were scrunched up in reaction to the syntax or the semantics of what I’d said. Fortunately, in any case, our Congolese supervisor then gave his own speech, stressing the importance of harmony and goodwill, and asking for us to move forward. It was brilliant; the tone was perfect, he cracked jokes, and he sympathized with both sides. The research assistants seemed satisfied, but they wanted to have another meeting, as soon as possible, with Scarlett present. And some said that they wouldn’t continue working unless Scarlett went back to Bukavu.
The second meeting happened the next evening. Scarlett had been quite emotional leading up to it, probably feeling like the whole group was against her. When it came time to begin, she composed herself, quite admirably, I thought, and read a short statement in which she both apologized and defended herself. The loudest reaction from the research assistants was that the apology was “too European.” It didn’t come from the heart. I wanted to explain that S had been in tears for most of the previous 36 hours, but I didn’t. There followed a lot more back and forth about the need for respect. The meeting ended with an agreement to keep working together, but some tension remained. Until…
…a couple nights later, when we organized a party to celebrate the fact that (1) our Congolese supervisor had purchased a very large fish and (2) there were only a few days of fieldwork left.

After some speeches and eating, someone turned on the radio in our SUV. The group insisted that Megan and I initiate the dancing because we were the only couple present. We obliged:

I don’t know if the shouts of “C’est incroyable!” were ironic or not. In any case, the real magic followed soon thereafter, when the accused asked his accuser to dance. Scarlett really had no choice given the yells of encouragement from everyone present. She and Randy began a sort of slow motion waltz. Randy, who is an unbelievable ham, slowly moved his hand from Scarlett’s back down to her butt. Scarlett slapped it away. The audience roared with laughter. Randy tried a couple more times; Scarlett successfully defended each time. The audience loved it. And then the dance was finished, and harmony was restored. I had visions of Gorbachev and Reagan fox-trotting. Bush and Saddam doing the Charleston. Malcom X and Margaret Thatcher learning how to Dougie. Bob Marley hosting an anti-rascifascifarian jamboree with Rush Limbaugh. No receipt, no cry.

Thursday, September 18, 2014

Household surveys and Che Guevara

It’s hard to believe that it’s been ten weeks since we started the endline survey to evaluate Dutch funding of Congolese NGOs, and six weeks since we finished. Over the four weeks of the survey we visited about 990 households in about 75 villages. We were 42 people in total; five teams of seven research assistants each (including two team leaders), six supervisors, and one all-around badass, Koen, the PhD student who organized and led the survey. Here’s a picture of Koen during our first day “in the field”, i.e. in a village where people live year-round. Normally we wouldn’t have this many people in one village, but this was a trial run in a village that was not actually part of our sample. 

Normally, one of the two team leaders from each team visits a village the day before we want to survey residents. She explains to the chief what we’d like to do, and asks permission to come back the next day with five other research assistants. She also visits each household we want to survey to give them a heads up. Each research assistant carried out 2-4 interviews per day. 
The interviews normally took place in the interviewees home. For example:
 Sometimes they took place outside. Here’s Nicaise entering responses into his tablet:

And sometimes the interviewees were only available out in their fields: 



The villages that we visited were in the southern part of the province of South Kivu, in the territories of Uvira and Fizi. If, like me, your passport was sent to Kinshasa for three months for a visa, then you can’t travel southeast from Bukavu through Rwanda, with its fancy “paved roads”, and arrive in Uvira in about an hour. Instead you have to drive over “The Escarpment”, a bumpy four hour ride on the road that you see to the right in this picture:



To the left you can see the Ruzizi river. The Ruzizi marks the border between Rwanda and DRC; and further south between Burundi and DRC. Many of the villages that we visited were in the Ruzizi Plains, a fertile area where, for at least twenty years, there has been a series of violent conflicts between people with farms and people who graze cattle.

Further south, in Fizi Territory, the Ruzizi meets Lake Tanganyika. It was in the lakeside mountains of Fizi that Che Guevara and a small group of Cubans arrived in the DRC 49 years ago. They joined some rebels led by a young Congolese man named Laurent-Désiré Kabila. After seven frustrating months, Guevara and the surviving Cubans left. In his (published!) diary about that time, Guevara wrote about Kabila: "Nothing leads me to believe he is the man of the hour." Thirty-two years later, Kabila would be hand-picked by the presidents of Rwanda and Uganda as the frontman for the invasion that brought an end to Mobutu’s 32-year reign in the DRC. Kabila lasted four years as head of state before he was assassinated by his body guard, a former child solder. Kabila’s son, age 29 at the time, was appointed as the new president and subsequently won the elections in 2006 and 2011, meaning that the constitution requires him to leave office by the next elections in 2016…unless he changes the constitution. That seems to me to be the main topic of conversations about politics at the moment.
 Sorry, was I writing about a survey? 

Monday, August 18, 2014

Let the artefactual field experiments begin!

The first project I was involved in here was an evaluation of Dutch funding to Congolese NGOs. We want to know if the NGOs did stuff that improved the lives of Congolese people (Like massages? No, like help with farming or schooling). To find out, we carried out a survey of about 1,000 households in about 100 villages in Uvira Territory and Fizi Territory in the Province of South Kivu (of which Bukavu is the capital). That required recruiting 35 research assistants. We put up signs at l’Université Catholique de Bukavu (UCB), sent out emails, and called people in our database. Altogether we collected about 120 CVs. We invited the most promising 60 to take a tablet-based general intelligence test with questions like, “If you add every third number between 1 and 50, is the result odd or even?” The top 40 from the test were invited to two weeks of in-class training. Here’s the group on Day 1 in a classroom at UCB’s new campus:

And here’s a view from the back of the class:

We went over the tablet-based questionnaire again and again:



And went through practice scenarios:


The training was so long because the survey included behavioral games a.k.a artefactual field experiments (AFEs) (by those who don’t play no games), which are tools for measuring trust, risk preferences, time preferences, and other characteristics for which self-reports may be unreliable. This survey had two AFEs. In an AFE to measure trust, the interviewee was given six laminated cards with a bushel of corn on one side and 500 FC (500 Congolese Francs is about 55 cents) on the other side. She was told that they could donate as many or as few as they want to a randomly selected member of their village, but they wouldn’t find out who, and neither would the recipient ever know their identity. NOW HERE’S THE KICKER: each bushel of corn that the interviewee donates becomes THREE bushels of corn (it’s, like, an investment). And THEN, after the corn multiplies, the anonymous receiver can send as much or as little back to the anonymous sender. Get it? The wealth-maximizing choices would be for the interviewee to send all six, which become 18 (18*500FC = 9000 FC = $10 USD), and then for the receiver to send back nine. That requires trust on the part of the interviewee. 
In the AFE to measure risk preferences, the interviewee was asked to choose one of six lotteries. Each lottery had two outcomes, each with a probability of 0.5. The interviewee would literally put her hand into a bag with a black ball and a white ball and pull one out. In the least risky lottery, both the white and black ball yield 4000FC (~$4.5 USD). In the most risky lottery, the white ball yields 1400FC (~$1.5 USD) and the black ball yields 8200 FC (~$9 USD). So the expected value of the riskiest lottery is 1400*.5 + 8200*.5 = 4800 FC. Thus, if an interviewee chooses the least risky lottery, she is giving up 800FC (almost $1 USD) in exchange for less uncertainty about the outcome. To see how intra-household bargaining influences risk preferences, we asked husbands and wives to play separately and then together.
In a country where the average daily income is roughly $1USD, these AFEs involve significant decisions, so, the theory goes, they should reveal interviewees’ true preferences. I was a little weirded out at first by the idea of asking subsistence farmers to play games with money, but two factors help assuage my concerns: first, it’s impossible to lose money. Every interviewee receives 1000FC in addition to the payout of one randomly selected AFE, and none of the AFEs involve losses (you can only win less). Interviewees could make up to 10,000FC (~$11USD). Second, village life has been described as boring by more than one villager, and it’s possible that these bizarre AFEs would be kinda fun. It’s also possible, though, that the stress of making these choices involving relatively large amounts of money outweighed the benefits. In my next post I’ll write about how it all turned out. 

Monday, July 28, 2014

The massacre at Mutarule

Megan and I have just returned from two weeks in Uvira and Fizi supervising (along with four other colleagues) a survey of about 1,000 households. My next few blog posts will be about that. But first I want to post something about the massacre at Mutarule on June 6.

Mutarule is a village about 6 hours drive from Bukavu. We passed it on the way down to Uvira. Everyone in the car recognized it immediately because of the graves by the side of the road:



On the evening of June 6, 33 people were killed in Mutarule, most of them in a church that was burned down while they were inside. Here's what's left of the church:  


The massacre was only the latest in a long series of violent incidents between the people in the area who have farms (the Bafuliro) and the people who raise cattle (the Barundi). If that sounds similar to the Hutu-Tutsi conflict, it's because it is. The fact that this is all still happening 20 years after the 1994 genocide is hard to believe...although when one considers what's going on in Israel and Palestine, it's clear that conflicts like this don't end quickly.

There are many people trying to figure out how can these communities reach a mutual understanding that peace will bring greater well-being to everyone involved. I'll post about that work as I learn more about it. To that end, if anyone has recommendations for people to contact or articles to read, please let me know.  

Sunday, June 8, 2014

In and out of the flow

How different are Bukavu and Cambridge, really? Teenagers wear skinny jeans and flat-billed hats. Professors talk too much.  Kids play with balls. In the stores you’re offered a plastic bag with your purchase. Just when you think that life here is the same as life there, you walk into a difference.

One of my favorite things to do anywhere is to walk where there are no cars. So I really enjoy the shortcut close to our house that connects our street, Ave Nyofu, with a street about 100m above it, Ave Lumumba. The ascent begins with a small wooden bridge over a trickle of water and waste. Usually there’s a man just beyond selling charcoal and wearing a golf cap. “Bonjour! C’est comme en Europe!” he says to us without fail. After passing him, one enters a narrow corridor with just enough space for one stream of humans to climb while another descends. As one climbs, there’s a brick wall 4m high to the left and to the right there are three wooden shacks with their entrances facing the corridor. In front of each shack there’s a grill and a young man tending to sizzling meat. Then, climbing still, there are stone steps in the red dirt that lead into a covered passage, the narrowest, final part of the short-cut. One passes under a tailor’s shop and out into the street.

It was there in the final covered passage, one day last week, when I noticed something had happened. First of all, the stream of humans had stopped, something that never happens normally, and blocked my entrance into the passage. I said “Excusez-moi” and started to gently push through the crowd. There was a man breathing heavily and rapidly to my left, but I didn’t see him well because I was watching several people in front of me who were pointing at the wall and speaking animatedly in Swahili. They were pointing at a divot or small hole. I noticed also that there was a large crowd at the end of the short cut.  

The short cut ends on one side of a very busy road with a large market on the other side. The sound of horns is constant. Motorcycles weave through taxi-vans, white NGO SUVs, and SUVs of color that belong to the rich. On the sidewalk yet more motorcycles wait for customers, crowds of people walk for their daily errands, and street vendors sit at their wooden tables under advertising-laden umbrellas. Some of these vendors sell Congolese francs for American dollars. The American dollars have to be pristine – no tears, no writing. The exchange rate has been 900 francs to the dollar for the last four years. These franc vendors sit with piles of 500 franc notes on their tables waiting for customers. Since arriving here I’d marveled at their confidence being in the open air with so much money.

On the day of interest, at the end of the short cut, pushing through the crowd in the covered passaged, I came upon the large crowd previously mentioned. The crowd was gathered around a one of the franc vendor’s wooden tables. There was no umbrella, no money, and no vendor, just a table with a bright red smear of blood across the surface.
I’m not used to seeing blood, and crowds in poor countries make me nervous, so I walked away a few meters. I asked someone what happened. “They killed him.”

That seemed to be enough information for now, so I took a taxi to l’Universite’ Catholique de Bukavu as planned. There, I asked our Congolese colleague Janvier if he’d heard what had happened. “Of course! Last night even.”
“Yes? So what happened?”
“The vendor was shot last night at 20h.”
“Did they catch the guy?”
“No. And they even killed his friend a few months ago.”

Over the next couple days a crowd remained around the table, no doubt sharing stories about what had happened. On the second day someone taped a photocopy of a picture of the victim on the concrete storefront behind his blood-smeared table. “Jean Katabisimwe. 1989-2014.” By the third day the picture and the crowd were gone and the steams of humans flowed through the short-cut just like they had before. 

Saturday, May 31, 2014

Megan in Africa!

By popular demand, this post will feature mostly pictures of Megan. 
Megan's first night in Africa: at Chez Lando in Kigali after a long flight from Amsterdam to Istanbul to Kigali.

 

Megan and my colleague, Koen, as we depart from Day 1 of our workshop at the International Institute of Tropical Agriculture just outside of Bukavu.


Sorry, no Megan in the next picture. During the workshop representatives from each of the six Congolese agriculture-focused NGOs who distribute improved seeds, fertilizer and inoculants as part of N2Africa were asked to describe their theory of change as to what results such distribution would produce, and how. I'm holding one group's description while the NGO rep explains. Koen is taking notes on the projected screen.



Friday, May 16, 2014

The crossover: Cambridge to Bukavu

It's been six years since I lived in Entebbe and posted on this blog. Megan and I have been in Bukavu for six days now and, since we'll be here for the next year, insh'Allah, (and because we just had lunch at a fancy hotel with relatively fast internet) I decided to resuscitate it. 
We're here because I just started as a research fellow with the Development Economics Group at Wageningen University (WU). Megan's looking for work in environmental policy research or university-level math teaching (so please holler if you have any leads). While we look for an apartment we're staying at Chez Mundi, a large house, really a complex, in the middle of Bukavu. Mundi coordinates the Universite' Catholique de Bukavu's collaborations with several Belgian and Dutch universities. His home has at least eight bedrooms, a backup generator, reliable (albeit slow) internet, and, until a truck ran into a water main two days ago, running water. His wife, mother, and seven beautiful children ranging in age from around 3 to 21 live at the house. The kids are usually on their laptops. When Megan and I arrived we were with two profs and a PhD student from WU. In addition to our squad, two Belgian profs, a Congolese prof, and a Belgian med student were also staying at Chez Mundi. Over dinner the first night one of the Belgian profs claimed that half of DRC prefers dry sex while the other half prefers wet sex, and that there are herbs, "easy to find", to facilitate either style.   
On a completely different note, here's the view from our bedroom:

We spent the first two days in meetings with directors or agronomists from the six Congolese agricultural NGOs with whom we're working, through the International Institute of Tropical Agriculture, on a DFID-funded, ESRC-coordinated, RCT to test the effectiveness of a package of seeds, fertilizer and inoculants as part of the Gates-funded N2Africa project. Megan valiantly took minutes of the proceedings, which were almost entirely in French. I understood about 50%.

On the fourth day, after Janneke and Lonneke went back to Holland, Koen showed us around town. When we found AI on the wall of a barbershop, I had to get a photo:

Ballin is universal.

Saturday, June 6, 2009

Witch Hunts and Foul Potions Heighten Fear of Leader in Gambia

By ADAM NOSSITER Published: May 20, 2009 NYTIMES

...To the accompaniment of drums, and directed by men in red tunics bedecked with mirrors and cowrie shells, dozens, perhaps hundreds, of Gambians were taken from their villages and driven by bus to secret locations. There they were forced to drink a foul-smelling concoction that made them hallucinate, gave them severe stomach pains, induced some to try digging a hole in a tiled floor, made others try climbing up a wall and in some cases killed them, according to the villagers themselves and Amnesty International.

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/05/21/world/africa/21gambia.html?sq=gambia&st=cse&scp=2&pagewanted=all


Wednesday, April 2, 2008

Who is that rising in you? How many wafers did you eat last Sunday?

Someone who I’ve never met, the sister of a friend of mine, sent me the following message today. (It should be noted that in Ugandan SMS culture it’s commonplace to find lengthy, pensive text messages):

"Do u know dat christ’s death wasnt easy at al, he was beaten nd tortured, denied aplace among his pple, pple spitted on him, every sort of evil word was said nd al sorts of accuzations were made, BUT WHY? bse he saw it worthy 2 save me nd u, indeed his death wasnt easy bt it was worthy. Christ paid d price, lets be glad nd rejoice 4 we a free indeed. Happy easter may d risen christ rise in u too."

A couple weeks ago in Apac I participated in the following exchange with Robert, a young Ugandan and fellow mosquito-catcher. I had wondered out loud why all the pictures of Jesus in the restaurant where we were eating portrayed Our Lord and Savior as if he were from Norway.

Me: “I was raised in a secular household. We didn’t go to church.”
Him: “In America? There are secular people in America?”
Me: “Yeah, there are a lot.”
Him: “Like 10,000 or 20,000?”
Me: “Probably more like 50 million.”
Him: “In America? But there are so many missionaries that come here!”
Me: “Yeah…”

"Let there be IKEA."

"No, Officer, I don't smell anything."

We returned to Kampala just as Mummar Gadaffi, Libya’s dictator for the last 40 years, was inaugurating the huge ultramodern mosque that he paid for, the humbly-named Gadaffi National Mosque. While in town he also delivered a lengthy speech in which he called Yoweri Museveni and Robert Mugabe “true African revolutionaries”, and urged them to never retire. He went on to say that a constitution is “just a piece of paper” and what’s important is “the will of the people” (which has nothing to do with how they vote). As the cherry on top of his self-serving cupcake, he claimed that someone had deleted the name of Prophet Muhammad from the text of the Bible and as such the Book is a forgery and the genuine Bible needs to be found.

http://www.monitor.co.ug/artman/publish/sun_news/Gadaffi_ignorant.shtml

Honkies are being recruited to smuggle drugs in and out of Kampala. Did someone say supplemental grant writing?
http://www.monitor.co.ug/artman/publish/insights/How_K_la_has_become_a_drug_lord_s_paradise.shtml

"Smoking or chewing Marijuana is the main cause of mental disorders which are soaring at an alarmingly high rate in the country."
Yes, and masturbation makes hair grow on your palms.
http://www.monitor.co.ug/artman/publish/news/Uganda_leads_in_marijuana_growing.shtml


The War On Drugs: another fine American example for the world to follow.

http://www.monitor.co.ug/artman/publish/oped/Uganda_must_take_drug_trade_seriously.shtml

Tuesday, January 15, 2008

Don’t Get Afterbirth On My CDs, Please

Verse two, comin with that Olde E brew

Meth-tical, puttin niggaz back in I.C.U.

We left Lake Mburo and headed towards the Rwandan border. At the crossing, men with wads of Rwandan Francs approached the SUV looking for a deal. I disembarked and officially signed us out of Uganda in a small tin-roofed shack. On the other side we got our passports stamped and assured Rwandese officials that we hadn’t come from Ebola-infested Bundibugyo.

I expected to find in Rwanda a slightly degraded version of Uganda; I assumed that visible traces would remain of the genocidal civil war 13 years ago during which 1 out of 10 people were murdered by their neighbors. Instead, we drove into a superficially upgraded version of Uganda. The homes and people looked much the same, but there were differences presumably due to the efficiency of a near totalitarian government in a small country: smooth roads free of potholes, motorcyclists wearing helmets, hedges along the hills to prevent erosion. Less easily explicable, people’s gardens were more colorful and well-tended.

All along the road people walked in twos and threes, uphill and downhill. Many carried water in those still-ubiquitous yellow plastic jugs. My co-pilot, L, claimed that the rolling green hills behind them have twins in China.

To reach Akagera National Park we turned onto a descending dirt road. By that point we’d been in the SUV long enough for a vague sensation of the U.S.A. to have settled into my skin, perhaps linked to an anesthetic pumped out by the A/C. I ate cookies and spoke unrestrained American English. The Grateful Dead sang of sharing women and wine. We rambled on contentedly in our metal and plastic cocoon.

In my contented daze I noticed something peculiar about yet another group of people walking on the side of the road. It was larger than the others and moving with haste. A few people together carried something of considerable weight. I stopped chewing long enough to dumbly mumble “Wonder what’s going on there…”

L, a physician with experience in rural Zimbabwe, recognized the situation instantly. “Someone is sick. They’re carrying him to the hospital.”

“They’re walking to the hospital we passed ten minutes ago? Jesus. It’s uphill the whole way.”

“You want to go back and give them a lift?” The idea hadn’t occurred to me. Did Newton’s Laws permit us to reach behind the windshield-shaped TV screen and pull someone into our 15-miles-per-gallon living room? Confucius smirks:

Seeking a foothold for self,
love finds a foothold for others;
seeking light for itself,
it enlightens others too.
To learn from the near at hand
may be called the clue to love.

I slowly lowered my foot onto the brake pedal. “Uh…yeah…yeah…we should go back and give them a lift. It would be the Christian thing to do.”

We turned around and pulled up alongside the crowd of about twenty people. Four young men in the lead carried a stretcher made of bamboo and palm leaves on their shoulders. A human form sagged inside. I rolled down the window and leaned out as if to request a cheeseburger with fries, biggie-sized, and large Coca-cola with extra ice. Rwandese unhappy meals came rushing in: heat, odor, panicked voices. I addressed the nearest stretcher-bearer:

“Parlez-vous Anglais?” No response.

I tried an alternate method.“Ogenda wa?” [Luganda: Where are you going?] Nothing.

Then, in my impersonation of a French accent, “Hospital?” Affirmation all around.

We got out of the car and set about clearing the back seat of all luxury: a box of books and CDs, name brand backpacks, head lamps, extra shoes, a 2 liter 7-Up bottle, L’s toiletry bag containing no less than ten tubes of various creams and lotions. During this process she somehow ascertained that the woman in the stretcher, the woman now being held up on wobbly legs by two men, was pregnant, with apparent complications. L laid a pathetically small dish towel on the backseat and said “We may have to deliver in the car.” Right. I’ll be ‘round back having an upchuck.

A team of four hauled the pregnant woman into our improvised ambulance. She half-sat, half-lay in the middle of the back seat, supported by a woman who could have been her older sister. Next to them, crammed farthest inside, a barefoot man in a sport coat decided for unknown reasons to crawl across everyone to exit rather than open the door to which his back had been pressed.

With three people and the mother-to-be remaining inside the vehicle, we were ready to roll. I gently closed the back door, climbed behind the steering wheel and, leaning forward, accelerating gently, began the meandering climb up to the hospital. A quick calculation of the risk of flipping the SUV or plunging into the roadside drainage ditch or plowing over small children on swervy bicycles versus the urgency of transporting a grimacing woman full of baby and baby juice to the delivery room yielded an optimal speed of 50 km per hour, plus or minus ten.

I accelerated less gently. L turned around in her seat to say “It’s OK, Mama.” Mama moaned. I glimpsed her head being stroked in the rearview mirror.

We reached the first of several goddamned speed humps. Mama moaned louder. Children shouted “Muzungu! Muzungu!” oblivious to our precious cargo.

The drive was taking longer than I’d expected. “How far back is the [Shoulder Angel: “Don’t say ‘goddamned’”] hospital?”

“It must be just ahead. We can’t miss it – it’s too big.”

My foothold on the gas pedal deepened further still. Energetically waving kids faded into clouds of dust. A white sedan came flying down the hill and I honked it over to where the other lane would have been, had there been lanes.

“There’s the hospital,” I said as I missed the turn. Throwing the vehicle into reverse, I let the engine stall out. “Jesus Christ.” [Shoulder Demon: “Let him have it, motherfucker!”] Eventually we came to halt under the awning of the hospital entrance.

Scanning the many faces milling about the entryway, I was comforted by the sight of a woman with a nametag. “Hello” I said.

“Hello” she answered back. Praise the Lord.

“This woman is pregnant,” I said.

Suddenly another name-tagged individual appeared, a rather burly fellow in a navy blue clinician’s coat. “You need to move your vehicle.”

“This woman is pregnant,” I repeated.

“You need to move your vehicle forward.” He gestured to the drain running under the SUV. I had no idea what he was talking about.

“Can we take out the pregnant woman first?”

The parking attendant posing as a medic then moved past me and actually managed to shut the door on Mama’s legs as her friends were helping her out. At this L’s nostrils flared, but she retained her professional calm. Annunciating carefully, she said, “Please put this woman in a wheel chair and then we will move the vehicle.” He continued to point to the drain while someone else arrived with a wheelchair. Mama slid into it and was immediately whisked into the building, her friends following closely behind.

We finally moved the vehicle forward and then just kept right on going, back down the winding hill, over the humps, past the people and homes and storefronts, and into the unpopulated savanna of Akagera National Park. Over the next two days we did what you do in a game park while Mama did what you do in a delivery room. I looked to my distant cousins for the answers to all of this. To the zebra: “Where did you get your stripes?” To the giraffe: “Why is your neck so long?” To the buffalo “How did you get so thick?” But only the hippopotamus gave me a response.

“Hippo, why you so phat?”


Yo I gets rugged as a motherfuckin carpet get

And niggaz love it, not in the physical form but in the mental

I spark and they cells get warm

I'm not a gentle, man, I'm a Method, Man!

Baby accept it, utmost respect it

(Assume the position) Stop look and listen

I spit on your grave then I grab my Charles Dickens

Thursday, January 10, 2008

Gimme an O

from today's Daily Monitor (Kampala):

"US Democrat candidate Barack Obama phoned Kenya's opposition leader Raila Odinga to express grave concern over the election outcome."
[Kivuitu is the chairman of Kenya's Electoral Commission. ODM is Odinga's party]

If the dialogue above is too small, it reads:
Obama: "Cousin, sorry about your votes. Clinton did a 'Kibaki' on me here as well...but I'm not rioting!"
Odinga: "I'm very sorry cousin..but are you sure your electoral commission didn't 'Kivuitu' your votes?!"


Excerpts from Andrew Sullivan’s argument that Obama is the only escape from the Baby Boomer infighting that, beginning with Vietnam, has driven American politics in an ever-tightening downward spiral

http://www.theatlantic.com/doc/200712/obama

What does he offer? First and foremost: his face. Think of it as the most effective potential re-branding of the United States since Reagan. Such a re-branding is not trivial—it’s central to an effective war strategy. The war on Islamist terror, after all, is two-pronged: a function of both hard power and soft power. We have seen the potential of hard power in removing the Taliban and Saddam Hussein. We have also seen its inherent weaknesses in Iraq, and its profound limitations in winning a long war against radical Islam. The next president has to create a sophisticated and supple blend of soft and hard power to isolate the enemy, to fight where necessary, but also to create an ideological template that works to the West’s advantage over the long haul. There is simply no other candidate with the potential of Obama to do this. Which is where his face comes in.

Consider this hypothetical. It’s November 2008. A young Pakistani Muslim is watching television and sees that this man—Barack Hussein Obama—is the new face of America. In one simple image, America’s soft power has been ratcheted up not a notch, but a logarithm. A brown-skinned man whose father was an African, who grew up in Indonesia and Hawaii, who attended a majority-Muslim school as a boy, is now the alleged enemy. If you wanted the crudest but most effective weapon against the demonization of America that fuels Islamist ideology, Obama’s face gets close. It proves them wrong about what America is in ways no words can.

The other obvious advantage that Obama has in facing the world and our enemies is his record on the Iraq War. He is the only major candidate to have clearly opposed it from the start. Whoever is in office in January 2009 will be tasked with redeploying forces in and out of Iraq, negotiating with neighboring states, engaging America’s estranged allies, tamping down regional violence. Obama’s interlocutors in Iraq and the Middle East would know that he never had suspicious motives toward Iraq, has no interest in occupying it indefinitely, and foresaw more clearly than most Americans the baleful consequences of long-term occupation.

This latter point is the most salient. The act of picking the next president will be in some ways a statement of America’s view of Iraq. Clinton is running as a centrist Democrat—voting for war, accepting the need for an occupation at least through her first term, while attempting to do triage as practically as possible. Obama is running as the clearer antiwar candidate. At the same time, Obama’s candidacy cannot fairly be cast as a McGovernite revival in tone or substance. He is not opposed to war as such. He is not opposed to the use of unilateral force, either—as demonstrated by his willingness to target al-Qaeda in Pakistan over the objections of the Pakistani government. He does not oppose the idea of democratization in the Muslim world as a general principle or the concept of nation building as such. He is not an isolationist, as his support for the campaign in Afghanistan proves. It is worth recalling the key passages of the speech Obama gave in Chicago on October 2, 2002, five months before the war:

"I don’t oppose all wars. And I know that in this crowd today, there is no shortage of patriots, or of patriotism. What I am opposed to is a dumb war. What I am opposed to is a rash war … I know that even a successful war against Iraq will require a U.S. occupation of undetermined length, at undetermined cost, with undetermined consequences. I know that an invasion of Iraq without a clear rationale and without strong international support will only fan the flames of the Middle East, and encourage the worst, rather than best, impulses of the Arab world, and strengthen the recruitment arm of al-Qaeda. I am not opposed to all wars. I’m opposed to dumb wars."

…The best speech Obama has ever given was not his famous 2004 convention address, but a June 2007 speech in Connecticut. In it, he described his religious conversion:

“One Sunday, I put on one of the few clean jackets I had, and went over to Trinity United Church of Christ on 95th Street on the South Side of Chicago. And I heard Reverend Jeremiah A. Wright deliver a sermon called “The Audacity of Hope.” And during the course of that sermon, he introduced me to someone named Jesus Christ. I learned that my sins could be redeemed. I learned that those things I was too weak to accomplish myself, he would accomplish with me if I placed my trust in him. And in time, I came to see faith as more than just a comfort to the weary or a hedge against death, but rather as an active, palpable agent in the world and in my own life.

It was because of these newfound understandings that I was finally able to walk down the aisle of Trinity one day and affirm my Christian faith. It came about as a choice and not an epiphany. I didn’t fall out in church, as folks sometimes do. The questions I had didn’t magically disappear. The skeptical bent of my mind didn’t suddenly vanish. But kneeling beneath that cross on the South Side, I felt I heard God’s spirit beckoning me. I submitted myself to his will, and dedicated myself to discovering his truth and carrying out his works. “

To be able to express this kind of religious conviction without disturbing or alienating the growing phalanx of secular voters, especially on the left, is quite an achievement. As he said in 2006, “Faith doesn’t mean that you don’t have doubts.” To deploy the rhetoric of Evangelicalism while eschewing its occasional anti-intellectualism and hubristic certainty is as rare as it is exhilarating. It is both an intellectual achievement, because Obama has clearly attempted to wrestle a modern Christianity from the encumbrances and anachronisms of its past, and an American achievement, because it was forged in the only American institution where conservative theology and the Democratic Party still communicate: the black church.

Obama is deeply aware of how he comes across to whites. In a revealing passage in his first book, he recounts how, in adolescence, he defused his white mother’s fears that he was drifting into delinquency. She had marched into his room and demanded to know what was going on. He flashed her “a reassuring smile and patted her hand and told her not to worry.” This, he tells us, was “usually an effective tactic,” because people

"were satisfied as long as you were courteous and smiled and made no sudden moves. They were more than satisfied; they were relieved—such a pleasant surprise to find a well-mannered young black man who didn’t seem angry all the time."

And so you have Obama’s campaign for white America: courteous and smiling and with no sudden moves.

…To be black and white, to have belonged to a nonreligious home and a Christian church, to have attended a majority-Muslim school in Indonesia and a black church in urban Chicago, to be more than one thing and sometimes not fully anything—this is an increasingly common experience for Americans, including many racial minorities. Obama expresses such a conflicted but resilient identity before he even utters a word. And this complexity, with its internal tensions, contradictions, and moods, may increasingly be the main thing all Americans have in common.



Saturday, December 22, 2007

Lake Mburo: where hippo nightmares come true

My plan over the holidays was to take a bus to Rwanda. Then I met an American with an SUV. We hit the road on 22 December, headed southwest from Kampala. After two hours we crossed the equator, marked by a 7 ft tall wooden circle and a series of "science experiments" to demonstrate that water does indeed spiral down in the opposite direction once you cross the line.

Shortly thereafter I took my first turn behind the wheel. Potholes, pedestrians, pedalers, peddlers and fucking gigantic buses triggered a flashback to my glory days with Mario Kart and Rock 'n Roll Racing.

Some Ankole cows heard that the iPhone was on sale at the community well:

If the Vikings had been able to make helmets out of horns like that then Leif Ericsson would be on the $1 bill.

By the grace of Krishna we made it to our first stop, Lake Mburo National Park, without harming man nor beast. The warthogs and impala showed more consideration for our vehicle than the cows. We set up camp by the lake.


I cooked pasta in the campfire and prayed to Mohammad that the hippos would keep their fat asses off our tent when they came onshore for nocturnal grazing.

At dawn the next morning we went for a stroll with a machine-gun toting park ranger, Jeffrey. The gun was for African Buffalo (also called Cape Buffalo) - all of the lions were killed by the cattle owners. The buffalo also have horns that would make a Viking moist.


Jeffrey explained that the best thing to do if you encounter a buffalo and you aren't carrying a machine-gun is to lie down and play dead. The buffalo will lick the living shit out of you with her rough tongue, but she won't be able to get her horns into you and fling you to the side like dirty underwear.


Friday, December 7, 2007

Entering Bureaucrats Outweigh Lowly Africans?

Was Ebola kept under wraps to ensure that CHOGM proceeded as planned?

I met her in a club down in Bundibugyo

Where you eat jackfruit and it tastes just like cherry-cola

C-o-l-a

Cola

She walked up to me and she asked me to dance

I asked her her name and in a dark brown voice she said Ebola

E-b-o-l-a

Ebola

bo-bo-bo-bo-bola

Well I’m not the worlds most physical guy

But when she squeezed me tight she nearly caused serious symptoms, such as diarrhea, dark or bloody feces, vomiting blood, red eyes due to distention and hemorrhage of sclerotic arterioles, petechia, maculopapular rash, and purpura and other secondary symptoms such as hypotension, hypovolemia, tachycardia, organ damage as a result of disseminated systemic necrosis, and proteinuria. The interior bleeding is caused by a chemical reaction between the virus and the platelets which creates a chemical that will cut cell sized holes into the capillary walls. After several days the person will die literally of "a million cuts."

Hot on the heels of CHOGM, Ebola has arrived in Uganda for the first time since 2001. So far 93 cases have been confirmed, resulting in 22 deaths. The timing of the outbreak’s official announcement has provoked accusations that the government withheld information from Bundibugyo district (on the border with DRC in western Uganda) in order to avoid alarming foreign delegates that came to Uganda for CHOGM last month. Cases of unexplained febrile illness have been documented in Bundibugyo since September, and Marburg virus, which belongs to the same family, Filoviridae, was documented back in July. In the government’s defense, there are approximately one gazillion potential causes of febrile illness in this part of the world, and this strain of Ebola has not shown all of the typical symptoms, nor has it produced 90% mortality rates as occurred in DRC in 2003. Furthermore, diagnosis is delayed by the fact that samples must be shipped out of Uganda for diagnosis. So, it may be reasonable to need two months to confirm that a virus is indeed Ebola. Then again, it may not. The question remains: Were Ugandan lives sacrificed to ensure that the conference would proceed without a hitch?

Starting tomorrow, UVRI may be able to prevent such desperate and delayed decision-making. The institute will become the second institution in Africa capable of diagnosing Ebola (the other is in Gabon). A team from CDC Atlanta is here modifying one of the labs in order to meet – just barely – the recommended safety standards. It will be an important step for Uganda to reduce its reliance on other nations and for UVRI to move towards the operational excellence it was known for prior to the wars in the mid-1980s.

Lost of course in all the Ebola hub-bub is the everyday epidemic of malaria.
Assuming that the 100,000 annual deaths in Uganda attributable to malaria are spread evenly throughout the year, then roughly 1,900 Ugandans have died from malaria since the Ebola outbreak was announced on 30 November. Malaria didn't scare the CHOGM delegates because it is primarily a disease of the poor. If you live in a shoddy house, you don't have a bednet and you don't buy newer medication to which Plasmodium isn't resistant, then you are likely to fall victim. That was the case in the southern U.S., Italy and many other places before the widespread DDT campaign in the 1950s and 1960s concurrent with the construction of better-sealed homes.

Friday, November 16, 2007

CHOGM!


CHO! – GUM!


CHO! – GUM!


CHO! – GUM!


"Why is there a wrinkly white broad in trite head wear sitting over there? Oh yeah, it's time for CHOGM."

The monster has finally arrived. It has been the topic of conversation for months, the explanation for all construction, renovation and remodeling as well as for the many shortfalls in government services. Rumors have swirled around the questions of whether or not roads will be closed and vacation days granted. Even when people aren't talking about CHOGM directly, it inevitably surfaces in descriptions of grandioseness. “I’m sleepy. I ate a CHOGM-sized lunch.”

What does CHOGM actually mean? To most people it means that Her Royal Highness Elizabeth II is coming. "We have to fix the roads for the Queen." "Security needs to be increased for the Queen." "We need to paint those empty buildings so the Queen thinks they are being used."

If he can turn a can of soup into art, maybe the Queen has a chance.

The Queen, of course, is nothing more than the most expensive table furnishing on the planet. The Commonwealth Heads of Government Meeting (CHOGM) brings 5,000 delegates from 53 nations (representing 2 billion individuals) to meet in Kampala for a week. The U.S.A. may be the only former British colony not in attendance.

The most urgent topic of discussion seems to be what in the hell to do about Pakistan, followed by what the hell to do about Zimbabwe. Mugabe was not invited, but reps of the opposition party were. That led the Daily Monitor (Kampala) to point out that Uganda's own opposition parties are notoriously absent from most conference proceedings.

[update: 400 Zimbabwean soldiers and officers were detained when an apparent military coup attempt was discovered. Supposedly the plan was to bomb Mugabe's residence.]

The scandalously unjust system of global trade agreements will also be negotiated, with the developing countries trying once again to join together long and strong enough to push back the U.K. and the other paleo- and neo-colonial fat cats.

The CHOGM Badass Award goes to Solomon Iguru, the Omukama (honkified = king) of Bunyoro, who turned down his invitation to the banquet honoring Queen Liz. His Prime Minister explains: "Eating, drinking and shaking hands do not develop Bunyoro Kitara Kingdom. He will not attend the event." Iguru instead requested (and was subsequently denied) a private audience with Liz and Gordon Brown in order to address grievances relating to the British occupation of Uganda, most notably the transfer of two Bunyoro counties to Buganda, a neighboring kingdom, as punishment for a Bunyoro uprising. Both the Bunyoro and Buganda, along with several other Great Lakes kingdoms, can trace their roots back to the Empire of Kitara, which peaked in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. If global conquest and submission had been part of Kitara's collective mindset, it might have capitalized on the devastating diseases and ethnic in-fighting that characterized the British Isles at that time...and I'd be typing in Bantu.

Will Uganda benefit from CHOGM? Optimists forecast a boost in Uganda's reputation as a 'civilized nation' (the way Ugandans throw around the words 'civilized' and 'uncivilized' makes me squirm) that will bring increases in investment and tourism. Pessimists (realists?) point out that most of the colossal sums of money spent to prepare for CHOGM have been spent on things that will only change Kampala temporarily, with no assistance whatsoever to the rest of the country. The BBC reports that in the last two financial years the government has spent close to $200 million on CHOGM preparations, including $11,000 for umbrellas, $18,000 for new rubber stamps, and around $200,000 on Blackberrys.

[The median income in Uganda is about $300.]

Government officials aren't the only folks getting ready for the invasion of foreign bureaucrats. The BBC also reports that sex workers have been taking English lessons and have upped their prices for a full night from $60 to $100.

ps. Happy Thanksgiving

Rather than thanking a god, I'd like to express my gratitude to all the people I've encountered who have not tried to kill, maim or harm me in any way.

Finally, big ups to any genes descended from Squanto a.k.a Tisquantum, who escaped slavery and traveled all the way back across the Atlantic only to find that his tribe had been wiped out by an imported illness. For unknown reasons (loneliness? to be a good Christian?) he proceeded to save some Purtians' asses. If those Brits had in turn taught the Patuxet how to use the Empire's legal system to establish property rights, perhaps Native Americans today would not be relegated to the back alleys of the United States.

Sunday, November 11, 2007

30 MINUTES OF OBAMA

What's on your mind?

Selections that I found to be revealing from 4 articles on Obama:

“The Phenomenon”
http://www.nybooks.com/articles/19651

…the main reason for his success surely has to do with the central theme of his rhetoric. In the convention speech, as in all his major speeches, Obama aimed far higher than the usual uninspiring Democratic laundry list of health care, good jobs, devotion to Roe v. Wade, and the rest. His subject is our shared civic culture, which he sees as under threat—mostly from the right but also from the left. He believes our red-versus-blue politics of today is positively toxic, and he thinks that our only hope is to rise above it. The theme of The Audacity of Hope is not how the Democrats can win more elections, or how a certain liberal policy goal can be attained; it is, he writes in the book's early pages, "how we might begin the process of changing our politics and our civic life." He wants a political culture that is, to be sure, liberal in its outlook but does the difficult work of trying to speak to people who don't share liberalism's assumptions (without being accommodationist to conservatives in power; Obama is no Joe Lieberman).

…After being sworn in to the Senate he listens to a stirring speech of welcome by Senator Robert Byrd, who warns of the "dangerous encroachment, year after year, of the Executive Branch on the Senate's precious independence."

"Listening to Senator Byrd," he reflects,

I felt with full force all the essential contradictions of me in this new place, with its marble busts, its arcane traditions, its memories and its ghosts. I pondered the fact that, according to his own autobiography, Senator Byrd had received his first taste of leadership in his early twenties, as a member of the Raleigh County Ku Klux Klan, an association that he had long disavowed, an error he attributed—no doubt correctly—to the time and place in which he'd been raised, but which continued to surface as an issue throughout his career. I thought about how he had joined other giants of the Senate, like J. William Fulbright of Arkansas and Richard Russell of Georgia, in Southern resistance to civil rights legislation. I wondered if this would matter to the liberals who now lionized Senator Byrd for his principled opposition to the Iraq War resolution—the MoveOn.org crowd, the heirs of the political counterculture the senator had spent much of his career disdaining.

I wondered if it should matter. Senator Byrd's life—like most of ours—has been the struggle of warring impulses, a twining of darkness and light. And in that sense I realized that he really was a proper emblem for the Senate, whose rules and design reflect the grand compromise of America's founding: the bargain between Northern states and Southern states, the Senate's role as a guardian against the passions of the moment, a defender of minority rights and state sovereignty, but also a tool to protect the wealthy from the rabble, and assure slaveholders of noninterference with their peculiar institution. Stamped into the very fiber of the Senate, within its genetic code, was the same contest between power and principle that characterized America as a whole, a lasting expression of that great debate among a few brilliant, flawed men that had concluded with the creation of a form of government unique in its genius—yet blind to the whip and the chain.

… Obama confesses his "curious relationship" to the 1960s, and acknowledges that "as disturbed as I might have been by Ronald Reagan's election in 1980...I understood his appeal."

It was the same appeal that the military bases back in Hawaii had always held for me as a young boy, with their tidy streets and well-oiled machinery, the crisp uniforms and crisper salutes.

He admits that "there are those within the Democratic Party who tend toward [a] zealotry" similar to that of the Republicans, and he observes of both sides: "It is such doctrinaire thinking and stark partisanship that have turned Americans off politics." It's easy, he writes,

to get most liberals riled up about government encroachments on freedom of the press or a woman's reproductive freedoms. But if you have a conversation with these same liberals about the potential costs of regulation to a small-business owner, you will often draw a blank stare.

In his "Politics" chapter, Obama writes with a considerable amount of candor (for a sitting senator) about his Senate campaign and the things one has to endure to become, and be, a senator. He can poke fun at himself and see his own shortcomings. But these passages, too, are chiefly about his deep frustration with how politics works today. He didn't like raising money,[3] and he seems to dislike powerful interest groups—particularly the single-issue advocacy organizations that vet candidates, dangling their endorsements in front of them—even more. "I've never been entirely comfortable with the term 'special interest' which lumps together the pharmaceutical lobby and the parents of special-ed kids," he writes. "I must have filled out at least fifty questionnaires" in 2004, he continues. "None of them were subtle."

Time dictated that I fill out only those questionnaires sent by organizations that might actually endorse me...so I could usually answer "yes" to most questions without any major discomfort. But every so often I would come across a question that gave me pause. I might agree with a union on the need to enforce labor and environmental standards in our trade laws, but did I believe that NAFTA should be repealed? I might agree that universal health care should be one of the nation's top priorities, but did it follow that a constitutional amendment was the best way to achieve that goal? I found myself hedging on such questions, writing in the margins, explaining the difficult policy choices involved. My staff would shake their heads. Get one answer wrong, they explained, and the endorsement, the workers, and the mailing list would all go to the other guy. Get them all right, I thought, and you have just locked yourself into the pattern of reflexive, partisan jousting that you have promised to help end.

Already in his young Senate career, Obama has disappointed some who thought they saw in him, in July 2004 in Boston, a political warrior. His voting record is generally quite liberal, almost conventionally so: his composite liberal score, according to the National Journal, is 83, meaning that his votes were more liberal on economic, social, and foreign policy issues than those of 83 percent of his colleagues.[4] But for the most part, he has not been a bold advocate. Aware that his celebrity is a likely source of resentment for more senior colleagues, he has moved slowly, seeking the spotlight rarely. He stepped into it in the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina, when he made his first appearance on a Sunday morning talk show—after turning down such invitations for months. His remarks to ABC's George Stephanopoulos were mostly quite measured ("there seemed to be a sense that this other America was somehow not on people's radar screen"). Around the same time, he offered his first major bill, which would give federal assistance to auto companies with retiree health care costs in exchange for greater fuel efficiency.

More recently, he has sought to call attention to the Darfur genocide. He visited a camp for the region's refugees in Chad in late August of this year; his interest surely owed something to Samantha Power, author of the Pulitzer Prize–winning study of the Rwandan genocide A Problem from Hell, who took a year's leave from her post at Harvard's Kennedy School of Government to work for Obama. He assembled a staff with strong Washington and Capitol Hill connections.[5] He visited nuclear stockpiles in the former Soviet Union with the moderate and agreeable Indiana Republican Richard Lugar; and, with the ultraconservative Oklahoma Republican Tom Coburn, he coauthored legislation—which in late September became the first law he's passed—requiring the publication on the Internet of the cost of all federal contracts, grants, and congressional "earmarks," the pork barrel appropriations that have drawn much criticism in the past year.

… the biggest surprise of Obama's first year was his vote for the so-called Class Action Fairness Act of 2005, the Republican bill, endorsed by the White House and signed enthusiastically by President Bush, to limit class action lawsuits. Obama's was one of eighteen Democratic votes in favor of the legislation, but the votes of the other seventeen were mostly expected (they were Democrats from red states or members of the party's "moderate" contingent like Connecticut's Joe Lieberman and California's Dianne Feinstein). A fair amount of speculation arose about Obama's vote. And it continues: in the November 2006 Harper's Magazine, Ken Silverstein, in a lengthy piece of reporting that inquires into the less uplifting aspects of Obama's Senate service, reports that the bill "was lobbied for aggressively by financial firms, which constitute Obama's second biggest single bloc of donors."[7] The financial companies hate class action suits, which can, at one stroke, impose huge burdens on industries in which they have invested.

One can't dismiss the possibility that such lobbying may have affected Obama's vote. But I think—from the evidence of his books and other writings—that a more likely explanation is this: he wanted, even if only to prove to himself that he could do it, to show at least one Democratic interest group that he could say no, and he chose the trial lawyers. They are less threatening than the advocates of organized labor and abortion rights. I feel certain that he just wanted to see how it felt.

“ The victories that the sixties generation brought about—the admission of minorities and women into full citizenship, the strengthening of individual liberties and the healthy willingness to question authority—have made America a far better place for all its citizens. But what has been lost in the process, and has yet to be replaced, are those shared assumptions—that quality of trust and fellow feeling—that bring us together as Americans.”

“Where is Barack Obama coming from?”
http://www.newyorker.com/archive/2004/05/31/040531fa_fact1

…Obama’s detachment, his calm, in such small venues, is less professorial than medical—like that of a doctor who, by listening to a patient’s story without emotional reaction, reassures the patient that the symptoms are familiar to him. It is also doctorly in the sense that Obama thinks about the body politic as a whole thing. If you are presenting a problem as something that they have perpetrated on us, then whipping up outrage is natural enough; but if you take unity seriously, as Obama does, then outrage does not make sense, any more than it would make sense for a doctor to express outrage that a patient’s kidney is causing pain in his back.

When Obama, as a young man, went to Kenya for the first time and learned how his father’s life had turned out—how he had destroyed his career by imagining that old tribalisms were just pettiness, with the arrogant idea that he could rise above the past and change his society by sheer force of belief—Obama’s aunt told him that his father had never understood that, as she put it, “if everyone is family, no one is family.” Obama found this striking enough so that he repeated it later on, in italics: If everyone is family, no one is family. Universalism is a delusion. Freedom is really just abandonment. You might start by throwing off religion, then your parents, your town, your people and your way of life, and when, later on, you end up leaving your wife or husband and your child, too, it seems only a natural progression.

So when it came time for Obama to leave home he reversed what his mother and father and grandparents had done: he turned around and moved east. First back to the mainland, spending two years of college in California, then farther, to New York. He ended up in Chicago, back in the Midwest, from which his mother’s parents had fled, embracing everything they had escaped—the constriction of tradition, the weight of history, the provincial smallness of community, settling for your whole life in one place with one group of people. He embraced even the dirt, the violence, and the narrowness that came with that place, because they were part of its memory. He thought about the great black migration to Chicago from the South, nearly a century before, and the traditions the migrants had made there. “I made a chain between my life and the faces I saw, borrowing other people’s memories,” he wrote. He wanted to be bound.

The victory of freedom over history is not just, of course, an American story about individuals but also a story that America tells about itself. Obama rejects this story even in one of its most persuasive incarnations, the civil-rights movement. He calls the “spirit that would grip the nation for that fleeting period between Kennedy’s election and the passage of the Voting Rights Act: the seeming triumph of universalism over parochialism and narrow-mindedness” a “useful fiction, one that haunts me . . . evoking as it does some lost Eden.” When it seems that history has been defeated, that is only an illusion produced by charisma and rhetoric.

It is, then, not surprising that when it was proposed that America should invade Iraq with the goal of establishing democracy there, Obama knew that it would be a terrible mistake. This was American innocence at its most destructive, freedom at its most deceptive, universalism at its most naïve. “There was a dangerous innocence to thinking that we would be greeted as liberators, or that with a little bit of economic assistance and democratic training you’d have a Jeffersonian democracy blooming in the desert,” he says now. “There is a running thread in American history of idealism that can express itself powerfully and appropriately, as it did after World War II with the creation of the United Nations and the Marshall Plan, when we recognized that our security and prosperity depend on the security and prosperity of others. But the same idealism can express itself in a sense that we can remake the world any way we want by flipping a switch, because we’re technologically superior or we’re wealthier or we’re morally superior. And when our idealism spills into that kind of naïveté and an unwillingness to acknowledge history and the weight of other cultures, then we get ourselves into trouble, as we did in Vietnam.”

“By nature, I’m not somebody who gets real worked up about things,” Obama writes in his second book. “When I see Ann Coulter or Sean Hannity baying across the television screen, I find it hard to take them seriously.” He tends to think of his opponents as deluded and ridiculous, rather than as demons. “I’ve never been a conspiracy theorist,” he says. “I’ve never believed there are a bunch of people out there who are pulling all the strings and pressing all the buttons. And the reason is that the older I get, the more time I spend meeting people in government or in the corporate arena, the more human everybody becomes. What I do believe is that those with money, those with influence, those with control over how resources are allocated in our society, are very protective of their interests, and they can rationalize infinitely the reasons why they should have more money and power than anyone else, why that’s somehow good for the society as a whole.”

Barack Obama Inc.: The birth of a Washington machine
http://www.harpers.org/archive/2006/11/0081275

Obama said that the “blogger community,” which by now is shorthand for liberal Democrats, gets frustrated with him because they think he’s too willing to compromise with Republicans. “My argument,” he says, “is that a polarized electorate plays to the advantage of those who want to dismantle government. Karl Rove can afford to win with 51 percent of the vote. They’re not trying to reform health care. They are content with an electorate that is cynical about government. Progressives have a harder job. They need a big enough majority to initiate bold proposals.”

I recall a remark made by Studs Terkel in 1980, about the liberal Republican John Anderson, who was running as an independent against Ronald Reagan and Jimmy Carter: “People are so tired of dealing with two-foot midgets, you give them someone two foot four and they start proclaiming him a giant.” In the unstinting and unanimous adulation of Barack Obama today, one wonders if a similar dynamic might be at work. If so, his is less a midgetry of character than one dictated by changing context. Gone are the days when, as in the 1970s, the U.S. Senate could comfortably house such men as Fred Harris (from Oklahoma, of all places), who called for the breakup of the oil, steel, and auto industries; as Wisconsin’s William Proxmire, who replaced Joe McCarthy in 1957 and survived into the 1980s, a crusader against big banks who neither spent nor raised campaign money; as South Dakota’s George McGovern, who favored huge cuts in defense spending and a guaranteed income for all Americans; as Frank Church of Idaho, who led important investigations into CIA and FBI abuses.

Today, money has all but wrung such dissent from the Senate. Campaigns have grown increasingly costly; in 2004 it took an average of more than $7 million to run for a Senate seat. As Carl Wagner, a Democratic political strategist who first came to Washington in 1970, remarked to me, the Senate today is a fundamentally different institution than it was then. “Senators were creatures of their states and reflected the cultures of their states,” he said. “Today they are creatures of the people who pay for their multimillion-dollar advertising campaigns. Representative democracy has largely been taken off the table. It’s reminiscent of the 1880s and 1890s, when senators were chosen by state legislatures who were owned by the railroads and the banks.” Accordingly, as corporate money has grown increasingly important to candidates, we have seen the rise of the smothering K Street culture and the revolving door that feeds it—not just lobbyists themselves but an entire interconnected world of campaign consultants, public-relations agencies, pollsters, and media strategists.

All of this has forged a political culture that is intrinsically hostile to reform. On condition of anonymity, one Washington lobbyist I spoke with was willing to point out the obvious: that big donors would not be helping out Obama if they didn’t see him as a “player.” The lobbyist added: “What’s the dollar value of a starry-eyed idealist?”

“How the son of a Kenyan economist became an Illinois Everyman.” The New Yorker
http://www.newyorker.com/archive/2004/05/31/040531fa_fact1

…Later, I asked him if he wasn’t waving a red flag in front of labor by talking about free trade. “Look, those guys are all wearing Nike shoes and buying Pioneer stereos,” he said. “They don’t want the borders closed. They just don’t want their communities destroyed.”

He was a black child, by American lights, but his mother and his grandparents—the only family he knew—were “white folks,” and his confusion was acute. In “Dreams from My Father,” Obama describes how, as a teen-ager, he tried marijuana and cocaine. (“I guess you’d have to say I wasn’t a politician when I wrote the book,” he told me. “I wanted to show how and why some kids, maybe especially young black men, flirt with danger and self-destruction.”) He went to Columbia University, and liked New York, but he found the city’s racial tension inescapable. It “flowed freely,” he wrote in his memoir—“not just out on the streets but in the stalls of Columbia’s bathrooms as well, where, no matter how many times the administration tried to paint them over, the walls remained scratched with blunt correspondence between niggers and kikes. It was as if all middle ground had collapsed.”

Fired with political idealism, he decided to become a community organizer. He wrote to organizations all over the United States, and finally got one reply, from Chicago. He moved there, going to work for a tiny, church-based group that was trying to help residents of poor South Side neighborhoods cope with a wave of plant closings. It was a humbling, exhausting, and only rarely edifying job; Obama stuck with it for three years. “Chicago” is the longest section of his memoir, and in many ways the bleakest, for it tunnels deep into the bedrock of inner-city despair and inadequate politics and black selfdestruction. It is also an unsentimental celebration of the city, which has a rich lode of brash, bluesy charm, of course, but also was a place for a serious, talented, too cosmopolitan young African-American to sink some roots.

“Teaching [at U of Chicago Law School] keeps you sharp,” Obama said. “The great thing about teaching constitutional law”—his subject—“is that all the tough questions land in your lap: abortion, gay rights, affirmative action. And you need to be able to argue both sides. I have to be able to argue the other side as well as Scalia does. I think that’s good for one’s politics.”

Americans aren’t simply too tired to think about politics, he said; they’re being deliberately turned off. “If you make political discourse sufficiently negative, more people will become cynical and stop paying attention. That leaves more space for special interests to pursue their agendas, and that’s how we end up with drug companies making drug policy, energy companies making energy policy, and multinationals making trade policy.”

…few who heard a speech that he gave at an antiwar rally in downtown Chicago in the fall of 2002—months before he announced for the Senate—forgot it. “It was the best antiwar speech I have ever heard, bar none,” a lifelong Democratic activist, now in her late sixties, told me.

I asked Obama about that speech.

“I noticed that a lot of people at that rally were wearing buttons saying, ‘War Is Not an Option,’ ” he said. “And I thought, I don’t agree with that. Sometimes war is an option. The Civil War was worth fighting. World War Two. So I got up and said that, among other things.” What he said, among other things, was “I am not opposed to all wars. I’m opposed to dumb wars.” Invading and occupying Iraq, he said, would be “a rash war, a war based not on reason but on passion, not on principle but on politics.”

In Springfield, Obama led a campaign for death-penalty reforms that resulted in unprecedented legislation, requiring the police to videotape all interrogations in cases involving capital crimes. Jan Schakowsky, a liberal Democratic congresswoman who represents Evanston and parts of north Chicago, told me that she thought the reforms were terrific but that, statewide, such things would never be popular, and that Obama was doing himself no favors politically by championing them. Similarly, Obama recently co-sponsored landmark legislation to curb racial profiling—not a popular issue outside minority communities, and not, therefore, a smart move for a man running for the U.S. Senate.

Jan Schakowsky told me about a recent visit she had made to the White House with a congressional delegation. On her way out, she said, President Bush noticed her “obama” button. “He jumped back, almost literally,” she said. “And I knew what he was thinking. So I reassured him it was Obama, with a ‘b.’ And I explained who he was. The President said, ‘Well, I don’t know him.’ So I just said, ‘You will.’